Haridwar

Haridwar is one of India’s holiest cities. It is located at the point where the Ganges leaves the Himalaya and enters the great Deccan plain. It is there that Vishnu is said to have dropped some heavenly amrit or nectar, as well as leaving his footprint. Har-ki-pari or Footprint of God is now the site of a large ghat where thousands of devout Hindus go to bathe and wash away their sins.



Sadhus sharing a chillum



The bazaar runs south from Har-ki-pari. Woolen wares, food vendors, vegetable stands, beauty goods, souvenirs …. the variety is stupendous. Orange-robed sadhus mingle with families, pilgrims, young people and old. Motor scooters and bicycle rickshaws noisily assert their way through the throng. In one group of sadhus I spotted a member of one of the most ascetic of all renunciate groups. He was virtually naked and smeared from head to toe with cremation ashes. He looked cheerful enough as he shared a chillum with the other sadhus.  

In the bazaar

Preparing flowers for puja

Each evening the area around Har-ki-pari becomes alive with light as people gather along the ghat for Gaanga arati or worship of the river. As dusk falls, the river is honoured with fire in the temples, along the banks, and by individual worshippers. Many place offerings into the river -- little boats made of leaves filled with flowers and other gifts. Each bears a tiny light. Scores of these floating lights rush down the fast flowing waters. Devotional music sounds from loudspeakers and periodically a roar goes up from the crowd in response to the urging and call of a priest. It is impressive and moving as this ancient faith finds expression today.